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Smoke coming out oil burner vent

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Smoke coming out oil burner vent

Postby NOTAXE » Sun Dec 16, 2012 1:46 pm

After the house arrives at the temp set on the thermostat, some smoke/ smoke odor comes out of the oil burner vent. What have I got set wrong. Started doing it last year. Wife now tired of it, HAHAHA Thank you :shock: :o
Furnace works great, had it 3 years. :D :)
NOTAXE
 
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Re: Smoke coming out oil burner vent

Postby brenndatomu » Mon Dec 17, 2012 1:48 pm

I don't see how there could be smoke coming out the air intake if you have negative .03 draft. Sounds like a flue/chimney issue. Is your chimney clean? Draft regulator working correctly? (set with a manometer) Heat exchanger been cleaned lately? Bird screen on chimney plugged up? I think it's gotta be something along these lines...
If your have a negative pressure on your firebox....no smoke in the house. Properly set up and maintained chimney system will give you almost foolproof negative pressure (draft)
If it wasn't doing it before last year, something changed, you find what that is and fix it....happy wife...= happy life for you! Good luck man! ;)
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Re: Smoke coming out oil burner vent

Postby bill » Mon Dec 17, 2012 6:55 pm

Yes you have a drafting problem without a doubt. . Most often these are caused my make up air not being installed.

Make up Air – Make up air is not an option it is heating code requirement and if the home owner refuses to comply and has a creosote or chimney issue we cannot help them any farther with these kinds of problems end of story. We know how this furnace will act if make up air is not introduced to the furnace, poorly, and we need to let the homeowner know that this is the performance they are going to get if they do not comply.

 Is there make up air brought into the furnace room and is it done according to the manual.
 A chimney must have 150 CFM’s (cubic feet a minute to work properly, whether you are burning wood, coal , gas or oil. This air must come in from the out-of-doors to the furnace room (just like the manual states) or the chimney won’t work properly


Chimney – What kind of chimney this furnace is hooked to can make a significant difference on the performance.
Creosote is more apt to form in the spring and the fall because the call for heat is significantly less than in the dead of winter. Because the wood fire does not need to burn as hot and is more often in a smoldering state the chimney does not draft as well due to running at cooler temperatures. The ability of a chimney to vent is controlled by air pressure. Chimney effect is the movement of air into and out of chimneys and is driven by chimney draft. Chimney draft occurs due to the difference in indoor-to-outdoor air density resulting from temperature and moisture differences. In the spring and the fall the moisture content in the air is much higher than in the winter because warmer air holds more moisture. The temperature difference between your chimney and the outside air is also reduced and the result is a change in the way the chimney drafts the flue gasses. The greater the temperature difference and the height of the chimney, the greater the chimney draft will be, allowing the chimney to draft properly.
IF LARGE LOADS OF WOOD ARE BURNED DURING THESE TIMES SMOLDERING WILL RESULT. CREOSOTE AND DRAFTING PROBLEMS SHOULD BE EXPECTED IF BURNED IN THIS MANNER.

 What are the dimensions of the chimney
 What material is the chimney made out of
 Chimney at least 18” above peak of roof (You may have to add chimney to overcome downdraft or insufficient draft)
 Is the chimney interior or exterior
 Is the chimney insulated against the outside elements
 What is the temperature outside (We all know that outdoor large, exterior, masonry chimneys don’t draw worth anything when it is warmer outside because they don’t stay warm enough, the same is true when it is cold outside but not as extreme.)
 Is the home owner burning large smoldering loads of wood in their furnace on warm days creating the problem themselves
 What kind of cap is on the chimney (too low or plugged screen)
 What kind of landscape surrounds the home
 Do you live near the bottom of hill
 Are there trees in close proximity that are taller than home, causing downdraft


Barometric Draft Regulator – All models of our furnace require this to be installed properly. The barometric damper actually performs several functions. The first is to prevent too much heat being vented when certain conditions increase the draw of the flue system. The extra draw is offset by the introduction of the ambient air, which keeps the secondary air being drawn through the heat exchanger relatively consistent. The second is a result of the first function; fresh air is introduced into the vent gases to dilute the acidity. Improper adjustment will result in wasted heat (short burn times), corroded vent pipe, and poor efficiency of the liquid fuel burner. If the draft is not properly adjusted it must be adjusted before any other drafting and efficiency/performance issues can be solved.

 Is the barometric damper connected to the smoke pipe on your furnace
 Is the barometric draft regulator installed and set to a .03” of water column with a manometer and who set it
 Is the barometric control level both front to back and the damper control level? (see installation manual)
 Is the draft control on a horizontal part of the smoke pipe or on the vertical or is it somewhere in between
 The weight control on the damper can be attached to either the right or left side of the damper. Which side is it on H or V depending on install
 There are number markers on the damper. What number is it set at
 There should be a ¼-inch hole drilled through the smoke pipe between the furnace and the barometric control. Do you see the hole? If you don’t see a hole in the smoke pipe, the draft has not been set with a draft control instrument that tests water column pressure
 How many total feet of smoke pipe do you have between the furnace inlet to the vertical chimney
 How many elbows are there in the smoke pipe
 Are the elbows 45-degree or 90-degree (how many)
 Chimney too large - Chimneys should have no more than two inches greater than the cross-sectional area of the flue outlet on the appliance. Thus a furnace with a six-inch-diameter collar shouldn't have more than an eight-inch-diameter chimney. Excess chimney area results in cooling of the flue gases and reduction of the draft, particularly in un-insulated exterior masonry chimneys.

Damper control – Is the damper control working when the solid fuel thermostat calls for heat.

 Does the butterfly open during a call for heat
 If it does not is there 24-36 volts at the transformer. If not replace transformer
 Is there 24-36 volts at the solenoid? If yes replace solenoid, if no replace circuit board.

Wood – Optimal performance is achieved with wood that has been seasoned to 20% moisture content.

 What kind of wood is the person burning (Hardwood, Softwood, Etc)
 How long has the wood been seasoned (spunky wood can cause as many problems as wet wood so this is something to consider)
 What is the moisture content of the wood and does the homeowner have access to or own a moisture meter
 Are they running an 80-90 deg temp rise on the hot air plenum (blower too fast)
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